Tuesday 19 April 2011

The demise of the chippy!


Not that I am one for hankering over the demise of a Great British institution but I feel we have found ourselves at somewhat of a crossroads. On one hand, the good old chip shop has, over decades, become integral to the communities of British towns and villages. Much like the pub and the local post office, fish and chip shops were one of those places that you could just, count upon. Nowadays, however much we ignore it these Great British bedrocks have become stale, ignoring the unsustainability of their produce, increasing prices beyond recognition and as a consequence of all this, turning to less traditional, more fast-food centered food-types.

Now without trying to hang-on to the coat-tails of the recent Channel 4 'fish-fight' campaign, I definitely want to echo their sentiments. In order for chip shops to evolve they need to react to the needs of the times and the need of the times is to turn to lesser known fish and spread this over many different species. For all it's tender flakiness, size and adaptability Cod is virtually unparalleled, but we all know the problems with it's stocks (and prices). That's why turning to sustainable and tasty fishies has to be the future! So, Mr Chip shop man, forget your Cods, Haddocks and Plaice for a few (hundred) years and turn your attentions to these veritable beauties!

Sardines
Gurnard
Sea Bream
Coley
Mackerel!
Pollack
Dab
Oyster

Another fantastic fish to use is Hake and nothing tastes quite as good as homemade fish and chips using this wonderfully moist and flaky white fish and is something I've used and found to be an even better substitute to Cod. It's kind of a take on High Fearnley-Whittingsall's recipe but with my definitive twist! It takes no longer than 30 mins and is ultra-easy.

Ingredients:

2 good sized Hake or Pollack fillets
Rogan Josh curry paste (Balti and Madras also work well)
2 good sized Maris Piper potatoes
A bowl full of defrosted Petit-Pous
Fresh mint
Dried rosemary
50g Butter
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
100ml Milk

Cooking method:

1. Slice up your potatoes into good chip-size wedges, with the skin on! Pop into a pan of heavily salted boiling water for 5 mins. Drain the potatoes and place back in the pan and add a glug of the oil, sea salt, black pepper and a tspn of the rosemary.

2. Place your Hake fillets on a plate and smother in Olive Oil, making sure that every inch of the fish is covered. Now is the time to season with coarse black pepper and sea salt. Using 1/4 of a jar of the curry paste, smother your fish on the flesh side only with a knife. Place on a baking tray and pop into a pre-heated oven for 15 minutes at 180c (fan assisted) 200c (without).

3. With about 10 minutes to go on the timer place your peas in a saucepan and heat for 2 mins and then add the milk. By now your peas will be starting to emulsify so add the butter and the mint and season to taste.

4. Once you have achieved a good rich, fragrant tasting mixture whack on the hand blitzer or pop into a blander and reduce down to a semi-fine consistency.

5. Remove your fish, chips and place on a heated plate with the pea mixture. Serve with homemade chunky tomato relish and you'll never have any need or inclination to visit the chippy again!

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